Chuseok! (추석) FINALLY (Daegu, Part II)

So if you’re one month late, why not be two months late, right?

Okay, maybe not most of the time, but this puts my Chuseok post (that I’ve been talking about for two months) out around American Thanksgiving season, and since many people reading this happen to be American, that correlation is kind of fun.

So as I mentioned in this post, a lot of things happened in Daegu. But the whole reason I was in Daegu in the first place was to celebrate Chuseok (추석) with a Korean family. Chuseok is the major harvest festival and three day holiday celebrated in the 8th lunar month in Korea (there are similarly timed major festivals in China, Vietnam, Japan, and many South Asian countries as well). Since it goes by the lunar calendar, its date varies, but the actual Chuseok day is always the 15th day of the 8th lunar month, which was September 24th this year. Similarly to Thanksgiving, Chuseok is a time of celebration and gratitude for the harvest and for family. It frequently involves visiting relatives, bringing gifts (traditionally food and fruit), and several specific traditions including Charye (차례) a memorial ceremony to honor the ancestors  performed at the home of the eldest son. Depending on the current religious affiliation (or lack thereof) of a family, these rites can vary a bit in practice, but their purpose is to show respect, reverence, and gratitude to those who came before, and they are are a very important part of Korean culture. The other important one is seongmyo (성묘) which is the visiting and cleaning of graves along with a simpler memorial.

Like American Thanksgiving, there is also a lot of eating involved. So much eating that I wondered if I was ever going to be hungry again (spoiler: I was). But I’ve gotten ahead of myself.

If we backtrack to the Sunday I met my host family, I also met up with the other Handong guest, Joy, who was Taiwanese and much better at speaking Korean than I am. This was handy, as our host parents basically just communicated in Korean for the full three days. Their daughter, who was really fun and sweet, spoke great English, so she was able to help out if necessary.

My Korean level is a lot higher in the reading/writing and understanding department, tbh. I just think so hard about responding that people usually assume that I don’t understand, which frustrates me – even if it’s understandable. So far, the most difficult part about speaking Korean in Korea is finding people patient enough to let you process and get a sentence out, which has given me even more respect for people who can come up with on the spot responses in a language that is not native to them. For someone like me, who has to process, even in English, and has the attention span of a gnat, this is really challenging. I frequently get frustrated because by the time I come up with a response, I’m past that part in the conversation, or a (usually well-meaning) person has translated, responded, or some such – which I don’t like, but isn’t meant that way by the person. These same traits make me bad at giving speeches naturally, or presenting. I literally forget “how to word,” when I’m faced with a group of people – my tongue feels thick, I get really thirsty, and I sometimes have trouble breathing. And yet, I have to get over this all the time, and I try not to beat myself up over it too much.

But this really long aside is to explain that not everything has been “idyllic” here. I have really loved being in Korea, and I don’t want to leave, but that doesn’t mean things are easy or not challenging. And that is the reality with many language learners (unless you’re brilliant), so I think it’s important to acknowledge it.

Anyhow, our host family was really far too kind and generous (despite my lack of rapid-fire Korean ability), and they involved us in every detail, starting the first night. I was honored that they opened both their home and their personal heritage to us, which really meant a lot to me as an American and an outsider who sincerely loves people, culture, and traditions, but understands that she doesn’t “belong,” per se.

The first night, we helped make some traditional side dishes. I was tasked with frying Koguma (고구마) – Korean Sweet Potatoes (not like Yams) that are popular snacks and street food. It was a lot of fun, and of course, the best part was taste-testing. You fry the potatoes in a light batter, so they are burning hot, soft, and a little sweet on the inside, with the crunchy, salty batter on the outside. Addictive.

Chuseok itself, the next day, involved an early start. We headed to the oldest brother’s house (of our host dad), and then proceeded to stay out-of-the-way.  We watched as they set up everything to perform Charye (차례) – which involves very specific steps, including: setting up a screen in the north (which you can see in my picture) with the table in the south (in front of it), with the small ritual table (also pictured) in the very front. Proteins should be in the back, and larger dishes, with fruits and desserts in front. White foods should be in the west (left) while red foods should be placed on the east end (right).  While these basic rules are followed, the actual food arrangement and variety, and rows, varies by household and region.

This part felt much more private, and a summary is that they set up the table of beautiful food, and after the memorial was properly performed by the brothers, we helped clear everything away and sat down to eat it all together. There were many relatives, and I had an easier time following the conversation because I was better able to just sit quietly and listen, so that if I was asked a question, I could answer. That is – I could answer if my mouth wasn’t full of food. It was definitely up there with one of the best meals ever: octopus, pajun (egg and flour batter cakes with meat and/or veggies), so many varieties of banchan (side dishes), chicken, fruit, rice, and more – so loaded on the tables that it seemed they might break.

After we ate, we spent some time visiting with the cousins, and inevitably, eating again (even though we weren’t hungry!). We spent a long time there, and then went home for a little bit before it was time to head farther out to the country to visit some of our host mom’s family.

This involved a long, winding drive in the dark to a more rural bit of Daegu. I could see a few farms on the way there, but soon it was too dark to tell. As soon as we arrived, the feel was a lot different from the formal, more ceremonial air of the earlier celebration. Our host mom’s brother-in-law was hilarious and fun to talk to. He introduced us to large mushrooms that grow wild in the mountains of Daegu – which turned out to be one of about 6 varieties that showed up during that meal. Because, of course, the point of this was a meal. The best part of this gathering was that it was a little like the unexpected party in The Hobbit. We started eating, only to have another sister show up with more food. Then another sister and her husband – and more food. And then another sister with food – but all at different parts of the evening. The two brothers-in-law were full of stories and anecdotes, and inevitably ended up talking about sensitive politics (just like half the families I know in the US around American Thanksgiving). Joy and I felt included in all of it, and of course, we had to eat until we couldn’t eat any more.

After we left (very late, and very full), we learned that we would drive out to the country again the next morning. This time, we would visit the grave site of our host mother’s parents. It took about and hour and a half to drive out there, but the scenery was gorgeous. Rolling hills, apple orchards, and mountains – with a clear blue sky and some giant, cotton-ball mound clouds. At the graves, we helped clear off weeds that might weaken the domes, and then had a picnic of fruit and enjoyed the cool weather and sunshine. After this, we stopped by a state park and walked around a reservoir, taking advantage of the beautiful weather. There was an outdoor market there, where we bought apples and (more) mushrooms before climbing back in the car and heading home. The ladies all decided to see a film (Searching starring John Cho – which was excellent!), and that was a fun thing to do together. Also, Korean subs meant a practice session!

The next day was the last day, so we went early to look at Daegu’s huge field of Cosmos and other flowers with our host mom (who loves flowers). It was gorgeous, if a bit chilly, but our smart and thoughtful host mom brought a thermos of coffee to help with that.

Sadly, after this, it was time to say goodbye to everyone but our host mom. She took us to the church cafe she runs first, and we helped move some plants around and drank some delicious pour-over coffee before we headed back to the bus station. On the bus ride home, I reflected both on our host family’s kindness, openness, and how they had welcomed two foreigners like actual family. I also thought about the similarities and differences between holidays, but how food and family are at the center of most celebrations around the world.

The trip also honed in on what parts of Korean I’m still really weak on (speaking), and I definitely improved from the three days of solid immersion (even if it didn’t help my confidence levels). However, the most important part was definitely the rich and unique experience, and being included in that experience. It’s something I’ll never forget, and it re-inspired me to invite and include people who don’t have somewhere to go to my family celebrations. Even if your traditions are different, you’re still bound to have a lot in common, and I think that is something every family should think more about during family celebrations. Whether that family is one you chose – friends, in-laws, etc – or the one you were born into, holidays are always a good time to remember how much you love them and the kindness and generosity you receive throughout the year.

Well, I hoped you enjoyed reading about my Chuseok experience! Does your family argue during holidays? What traditions or customs do you celebrate? Have you ever been over to a friend’s house during a holiday? And most importantly – what food is necessary for it to be an actual celebration?

Small, Good Things: September in Review

thankI had really planned on doing Nandini Bharadwaj from Unputdownable Books Lord of the Rings Tag for September (which is Hobbit Month, obviously* ;P) but life and school and my bad memory (for the books I’ve read recently TT) made me drag on with that, and now it is apparently October 1st.

Regardless of the criticism I have for the Hobbit movies – Martin Freeman is a FANTASTIC Bilbo.

I am slightly dismayed, as this means time went so quickly – and I’ve already been in Korea for a month and a half! I don’t even want to think about that.

I DO PLAN ON DOING THE TAG. JUST IN OCTOBER.

Also – the good part is – we are in the best part of the year! From September through December is my favorite time to be outside, inside, and generally alive and a human in this world. For one thing, it is officially autumn (가울/Ga-eul in Korean), which is my favorite season – and that means

leaves changing, sweater weather, hiking!, pumpkins and squash, Halloween, Thanksgiving, food, steaming mugs of tea or cider paired with your favorite book, knitting, and I could go on.

As autumn slides into winter, we have Christmas and winter peace, and more opportunities for sweaters, tea, books, and knitting. Summary: I just really like this time of year. Also, apparently Autumn is the most beautiful time to be in Pohang (this post), according to the friends I’ve made here. Considering it is already beautiful, I’m really excited to see the new dimensions that fall colors bring to the gorgeous Korean landscape.

So now that I’ve gushed a bit about fall – it’s time to look back at September. It was a very busy month for me, but I somehow managed to write 4 involved posts (and start drafts of about 5 more), read a few books, and keep up with school at a new university. I also plan on sharing some of the “small, good things” that helped keep my spirits up as I reentered the blogging world for a whole month, and tried to re-engage with people offline and online. All while studying abroad for the first time. In other words, I have a lot to be grateful for, but I think sometimes I forget that. Counting small (or not so small) blessings is often a way to remember to be grateful, and so that is how I am organizing this September Summary Post.

A Dozen Small, Good Things – with illustrative gifs:

  1. Korean Food

I love food and I love to cook too – so living in a dorm with an upstairs (read: minimal) kitchen space has been a challenge. However, I managed to make kimchi jjigae there with the limited resources. Korean food is sheer comfort food for me, and it is all so delicious. I am really grateful that I am able to eat, enjoy meals with friends, and try so many things while here in Korea. Some of the best so far? Hotteok, Tteokbokki and Sundae, and all the amazing food for Chuseok last week (Chuseok post coming soon!).

2. Umbrellas

I have never been so grateful to the inspired human who decided we need tents on sticks to keep ourselves out of the sun or rain! Just like in Hong Kong, it spontaneously rains all the time in Pohang. But unlike in Hong Kong, the rain here is cold. It chills you and somehow seeps in your clothes.

Can also double as a weapon

Enter the sturdy, thick handled umbrella. Resistant against rain and protective against hot sun, the only thing that will defeat it is a typhoon. (I have it on good authority that most Handong students go through 5 umbrellas a year)**

3. Hot Water Dispensers

Water purifiers are all over campus. In the states, this is also common, but the water is always cold. This is fantastic – unless you want a quick cup of tea or want to make the world’s laziest cup of ramen (and admit it, sometimes we all do). But in Handong, and honestly, most of Korea (restaurants, malls, hostels, etc) are outfitted with handy water dispenser that will give hot OR cold water. So simple but so brilliant. I will miss it terribly.

This gif is therapeutic
4. Wifi

Wifi, wifi, everywhere. I even found it in a gorge once. Koreans are known for their wifi and it lives up to the reputation of being fast and easy to find. This is invaluable if you don’t have a Korean phone number, as apps like WhatsApp, Line, and Kakao Talk let you chat with friends all over the world for no extra fees. WiFi also makes it easier to access maps, bus schedules, dictionaries, addresses, and all the other little details that make navigating a different country so much easier. Sometime connection can be a beautiful thing.

5. Buses

Old, new, grungy, or clean – they are always right on time and so reliable. the public transportation here is a thing of beauty, and I love the ability to hop on a bus and make it anywhere on a map, maybe with a few transfers, and all you have to do is swipe a transportation card. That same card can get you on a subway as well, so its doubly useful. Coming from the States and especially the Midwest, some people may not realize how blindingly brilliant I find public transportation – but it is one of the best things in the world and we need it STAT.

6. Public Parks
Grave mounds

Big, small, National – I don’t care – I am an equal opportunity lover of public parks. Korea, so far, doesn’t seem to have the same sorts of manicured, cultivated parks that randomly sprout out of a city block like in Hong Kong, but they have something even better: mountains that sprout out of city blocks. If you like to hike (and everyone who has visited this blog probably knows what a hiking enthusiast I am), then Korea is a fantastic place to be.

Though not every park has a mountain, there are a proliferation of parks that have everything from national monuments to exercise equipment (yes, just outside and free to use), pavilions, benches, ponds, gardens, and in the case of the wooded park behind my school, a lake AND some random grave mounds. A lot more interesting  than your average park.

Regardless, there is always something to see, and you can get fresh air, exercise, and a change of scenery by basically just walking outside. It is fantastic and I love it so much. If there’s a mountain, that just makes things even better.

7. Blog/Instagram Comments

I sometimes take a long time to answer, and I am lately rather bad at going around and leaving comments of my own, but I really love the dialogue online. It’s not so much that I care if people like to read what I wrote (though that is a nice bonus!), I just really like to chat and interact and hear about others’ experiences too. When I first started blogging, I really just wanted to find a community of people who cared about the same things

Sometimes this is as much as I can come up with ;P

and had the same passions, because I was lacking that in the offline world. So every time someone comments on my posts, or even social media, I know that they “listened,” and are now responding, so then we had a conversation. I love that.

8. Sunlit forests

Yes, I’m a nature girl (See #6), and if I’m stressed or keyed up, my instinct is to flee the crowds and find some trees. There is something so magical about the way sunlight makes patterns though leaves and trees – it never looks the same way twice, and I have actually stood for about an hour watching the change in light and shadow on a forest floor. Really. It’s even hard for me to photograph, since ever minute the light changes, there is a new pattern or design that wasn’t there before.

The Woods of Palgongsan, Daegu, ROK

I think the great love for trees, forests, and the particular way that afternoon sun turns all things to gold, was one of the many reasons I bonded so much with Tolkien’s writing as a kid. His love for forests, for the way they feel alive and almost seem to listen – for the way they can make you feel not so alone when you are by yourself – it always spoke to me. No matter how young I was when my dad started reading the books to us, that was something I understood on the most basic level.

9. Korean Reality TV

Running Man, King of Mask Singer, 2 Days 1 Night, Law of the Jungle, Return of Superman, and all of the many, many random programs found on both the actual TV and on VLive (app/website) are a gift to language learners, and anyone who just wants some innocent gut-shaking laughter. If you have never watching Korean Reality TV, you are missing out – because I’m not talking American made-for-tv-drama called reality, or toddlers in makeup, or wild beach parties – I’m talking about tv hosts with big personalities creating mischief, playing silly but fun games, learning skills or crafts, and the funniest use of subtitles ever. Not only do the frequent subtitles give you Korean language practice, they often add, comment on, or embellish whatever is going on in the program. If you don’t know any Korean, and have no plan to learn, there are a ton of websites that provide English subs as well as other languages, so you can enjoy the programs too (I mean, my 5-year old sister can’t read more than letters, and she’s an avid Running Man fan).

 

10. Remembering New Vocabulary

Every time I think I have mastered a new phrase, conjugation, or word in Korean, I seem to forget about five others. It’s really rough when I am working so hard to understand, but the things I want to say just won’t come out! 생각이 많이 있어서 말 하고 싶어요. 그러나 한국말 하는 것을 좀 어려워요. 단어가 기억할 수 없으면 특히 답답해요. (I have a lot of thoughts so I want to speak. But Korean is a little difficult to speak. It’s especially frustrating if I can’t remember a word) [ Any errors in the sentence are mine].

그래서 (keu-rae-soh), or therefore, when I remember a word, especially at the perfect time, I am always so, so grateful. 진짜요. (Really)

11. Spotify Premium

I’m so glad I signed up for Student Spotify Premium before I left the States. It’s worth the $5 a month to be able to play whatever  I want, whenever I

want it (even if I don’t have WiFi, I can play downloaded playlists). Since SP isn’t available in Korea, I can only use it because I signed up in the US – and it has been a wonderful service to have. I don’t think I have to write any more about why music is a necessary part of my life (see this post), but here are 5 diverse but upbeat tracks I am really into at the moment! ***

Se Vuelve Loca by CNCO – as far as my very rudimentary knowledge of Spanish goes, this is about a girl who loves to be seen when she’s dancing. It’s got a great groove, and those beautiful vocals I always love from CNCO. They’re super talented, and all of their songs make you want to get up and dance (also check out the Tainy Remix of Diganle featuring Leslie Grace!)

All Time Low by Straight No Chaser – the brilliant men of acapella pop-cover group Straight No Chaser take on Jon Bellion’s 2016 hit, adding some on point vocalizing and beatboxing. Catchy, a little eerie, and somehow still dance-worthy, it’s been a frequent go-to for me this month.

Way Back Home by SHAUN – It says a lot about this song that I still love it even though I heard it before it was popular, and now I can’t go anywhere in Korea without hearing it at least once! SHAUN’s voice is smooth, effortless, and the soft cry to his falsetto is magic with the gentle island beat and guitar that back them up in this smash hit from his first EP. He’s also a DJ and producer – so, yeah, talented guy.

Lonely (feat. Max) Steve Aoki Remix by Matoma- Norwegian DJ/Producer of house and tropical-vibed dance music, Matoma, teams up with my much-loved Max, and they get added gloss from Steve Aoki in this pulsing, broody anthem that still makes you feel good somehow. Max just wants to know where you were when he was lonely? Is that such a hard question?

Up All Night by David Archuleta – Not a name you’ve heard in a while? Me neither. I randomly stumbled across this 2017 track by the former American Idol while gearing up a play queue for a long study session. It’s also dance-y, but David Archuleta has the voice of an angel, and its brilliant paired with a dance-pop track reminiscent of early-2000’s Céline Dion in the best kind of way.

12. Instant Coffee

Last, but never least – COFFEE. Sure, there are cute cafes everywhere in Korea, and I could walk down a block, buy an Americano every 3 shops, and be broke by the time I made it back to campus. Instant coffee, while not the same quality level, is still a must when you live in a dorm without a coffee pot for 4 months. And when there are instant hot water dispensers (see #3), then you never have to be out of reach of coffee. I actually managed to find some pretty decent tasting stuff here, and it’s already helped propel me through a couple late group-project nights.

There are a lot more than a dozen things to be thankful for, especially now that it is the best time of year (my unbiased opinion). What are some small, daily reminders to you that show you how much you have, and how blessed you are? Have you taken time to be grateful today? Please tell me in the comments (#7, wink, wink, nod, nod). And as always, thanks for reading!

*September is Tolkien Month/Hobbit Month because I (and some other people) say so. But Hobbit Day (September 22nd, Bilbo and Frodo’s Birthday, is verified by the most trustworthy Wikipedia)

**True story. My friend said that the average Handong student goes through 5 umbrellas a year, and that is why you often see battered, ruined umbrellas in trashcans after really terrible storms.

***ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ But no, not today, 그 때가 오늘은 아니지

 

School-Induced Hiatus and a Thanksgiving Update

That’s a promise . . .

Anyhow, I’ve been on unintentional school-induced hiatus since, well, September, and I’ve been itching to write a blog post. The problem? I have no time. Thanksgiving “Break” just started, and I have 3 papers to work on before I head in to work at 4pm . . .

Yet here I am – itching to give a bit of an update for anyone who might still read this!

How ARE you? I feel out of touch. How is your writing/blogging/reading? Are you doing anything fun during Thanksgiving?

Since the last time I wrote a blog post, I took on 16 credit hours of school and another job (at a Korean BBQ – more on that later). I also moved (temporarily) to Grand Rapids and obtained two awesome roommates. And I feel really, really old (this is all related, trust me).

Since it’s the eve of Thanksgiving, I’m not here to rant about any of that – or about anything that’s been happening in this crazy world since September.

Instead, I’m updating you guys on my general life, and writing about a few things I’m grateful for.

SO – school happened. I feel like I’m on a strange island populated by twentysomethings – or like an alien that crash-landed on campus (seriously, the looks I get when I say I’m 27, technically a freshman, and I have eleven siblings . . . hehehe)

I'm like Mister Do Min Joon, but not as pretty
I’m like Mister Do Min Joon, but not as pretty

Which leads into Thanksgiving:

  • I am incredibly grateful for the aforementioned roommates (both of whom are gems of humanity, and 25-year-old grad students, so around my age)
  • I am grateful for my Korean professor – she makes coming to class worth it every morning, even when I’m exhausted – and she encourages me to keep on swimming. Also, for my philosophy professor, who single-handedly made me rethink my whole scholastic pursuit by suggesting we think of them as spiritual disciplines – and for giving me an excuse to finally get around to reading Gandhi’s autobiography.
  • I am thankful that I have a car, a job, a roof over my head, shoes, and a bed to sleep in.
  • I am thankful that I have a job, and people who value me there.
  • I am thankful for every person in GR/Calvin that made a point of reaching out to me, remembered my name and made a point of saying hi, and for everyone that has been kind in any way to me – you will probably never know how much a friendly smile or a kind word can mean at the right time. Thank you.
  • I am grateful to have a novel under contract, even if it keeps getting delayed
  • I am thankful for the freedom of speech, the freedom to read whatever I want, and write whatever I want, and speak the truth – and the freedom to protest if any of those things are challenged
  • I am grateful for the wordsmiths that boost me up – whether they are singers, or poets, or writers, or just darn good speakers that lift your spirits or keep you going
  • I am thankful for the writers, readers, and bloggers that I have enjoyed reading or chatting with – you are beautiful people
  • I am thankful for my family – especially my parents, siblings, and grandparents – your love and support keeps me sane (ish)
  • I am thankful for the God of truth and justice, and for the Savior who makes all things unlovely to be lovely, and has compassion and love for the broken and unlovable

And now, since I am (for once) being completely serious and reflective – have some words to think on as we hurtle toward 2017:

  • “It is in times of security that the spirit should be preparing itself to deal with difficult times; while fortune is bestowing favors on it then is the time for it to be strengthened against her rebuffs.” Seneca, Letters from a Stoic
  • “Each of us, no matter how good, is fallen, and each of us, no matter how evil, is as beloved as the prodigal son . . . The line between good and evil doesn’t run between people, but down the center of every heart . . . St. Paul said we should do nothing from selfishness or conceit, but in humility count others better than ourselves. This is the exact opposite of what we naturally want; we want others to count us better than them. . . loving ourselves is what causes all the trouble . . . We should love others the way we instinctively love ourselves.” Frederica Mathewes-Green, The Illumined Heart
  • “You have heard that it was said, ‘You shall love your neighbor and hate your enemy.’ But I say to you, Love your enemies and pray for those who persecute you, so that you may be sons of your Father who is in heaven. For he makes his sun rise on the evil and on the good, and sends rain on the just and on the unjust. For you if you love those who love you, what reward do you have?” (Matthew 5: 43-46b)
  • “So long as a man does not of his own free will put himself last among his fellow creatures, there is no salvation for him.” Gandhi, The Story of my Experiments with Truth
  • “Perhaps someone may say, But surely, Socrates, after you have left us you can spend the rest of your life in quietly minding your own business. This is the hardest thing of all to make some of you understand. If I say that this would be disobedience to God, and that is why I cannot ‘mind my own business,’ you will not believe that I am serious. If on the other hand I tell you that to let no day pass without discussing goodness and all the other subjects about which you hear me talking and examining both myself and others is really the very best thing that a man can do, and that life without this sort of examination is not worth living, you will be even less inclined to believe me.” Plato, Socrates’ Defense
  • ‘How is a man to judge what to do in such times?’
    As he has ever judged,’ said Aragorn. ‘Good and evil have not changed since yesteryear, nor are they one thing among Elves and another among Men. It is a man’s part to discern them, as much in the Golden Wood as in his own house.”
    J.R.R. Tolkien, The Two Towers
  • “To love at all is to be vulnerable. Love anything and your heart will be wrung and possibly broken. If you want to make sure of keeping it intact you must give it to no one, not even an animal. Wrap it carefully round with hobbies and little luxuries; avoid all entanglements. Lock it up safe in the casket or coffin of your selfishness. But in that casket, safe, dark, motionless, airless, it will change. It will not be broken; it will become unbreakable, impenetrable, irredeemable. To love is to be vulnerable.”
    C.S. Lewis, The Four Loves

We all have a lot to be grateful for, and we can’t let ourselves forget it. Happy reading and writing, and have a safe and lovely Thanksgiving <3

~R